自动化装机一条龙打造神奇的WinXP安装盘_精彩人生 玉臣帮助

自动化装机一条龙打造神奇的WinXP安装盘_精彩人生 玉臣帮助

如何清洗及预防 谈谈节气门的维护问题_太平洋汽车网_保养维护

如何清洗及预防 谈谈节气门的维护问题_太平洋汽车网_保养维护

电动节气门的构成大致可分归为一下几个部分：节流阀、电磁驱动器、电位计、控制器(有的没有，直接由ecu管着、旁通阀（已不多用，拉线的到都有）。其故障特征分两类：硬故障和软故障。硬故障指机械损坏，软故障指脏污，失调等。

　　先说硬故障。

　 　电位计的电阻部分是在聚酯基片上喷涂一层炭膜而成，这其实是一种很低级的制备工艺，耐磨度不高。说白了还不如我们平常加点的电位器！滑动触点由一排精钢 制的反爪构成，注意！是反爪！！！这简直就是雪上加霜！另外，炭膜上一点保护剂都不凃，脱落的炭粉导致接触不良，亮灯就不可避免了！曾经修过一个炭膜被刮 漏的，也就七万公里，那主儿脚也欠！

　　再说软故障。

　　大家经常被清洗节气门所困扰，原因是大部分时间节气门开度过低。空气以很高的速度（几十～几百米/秒）流过节气门缝隙，逐渐积累的灰尘对空气流量产生的影响超过了节气门的调节能力（怠速时的。

　　可能是因为早期的制造商还没想清楚，99欧车的节流阀设计的很好，通电后有一个初始化动作。阀板未加电前处于四度的开度，加电后翻到零度（全闭合）十秒再返回，完成初始化。我这么一说，大家就明白了吧？所以，我那99欧车从来没为打冷战洗过节气门，幸福啊!

　　不过，那片小小的电阻片(也就毛儿来钱事儿吧!)最终可能还得让我掏四千来大米（据说降价了）！

　　这个节气门如果让我来设计：一个无触点电位计，节流阀用滑片孔板式（看过照相机的光圈调节器吧!），来回一动有设什么都给刮走了！三五十万公里没问题，看4S,JS们黑谁去！

　　现在重点说说清洗节气门的相关知识

　　拆~洗~装~

　　简单~力气活~没技术含量~~不说了~

　　说1说洗完以后的电脑匹配：

　　工具：笔记本电脑，VAG-COM线，VAS5051B软件~

　　前提：水温高于85度，打开钥匙门，灭车状态，脚丫子不要碰油门踏板。

　　一、5V车（CT GT GTX AT等车型）

　　第一步，拆洗节气门

　　第二步，用VAG-COM线连接汽车与笔记本电脑

　　第三步，选择“01发动机电器”

　　第四步，选择“02故障查询”

　　第五步，选择“05清除故障码”

　　第六步，选择“返回其他功能”回到“发动机电器”主页面

　　第七步，选择“04基本设定”在组号中输入“098”，点“GO”

　　完成后，电脑会有相应的文字提示。

　　OVER~

　　二、2V车（CI CIX GIX ATI GIF CIF等车型）

　　前六步同5V车。

　　第七步：选择“10匹配调整”

　　第八步：在“通道号码”格中输入“00”先选择“读取原数值”，再选择“测试新数值”电脑提示测试成功后，选择“保存匹配数据”回到“发动机电器”主页面。

　　第九步：选择“04基本设定”在组号中输入“060”，点“GO”

　　完成后，电脑会有相应的文字提示。

　　OVER~

　　做完匹配后~着车~用VAG-COM查看节气门开度~若大于5度~说明没洗干净~小于2度说明节气门有毛病了~

　　提示：拆洗节气门相当费力，如果不是熟练的工人，很难把节气门拆下来。甚至，有把进气大塑料管捭坏，或者把节气门洗坏的可能。

　　建议动手能力不强的DX~不要轻易尝试~呵呵~到CTO那里洗液没几个钱~哈~

　　节气门油泥的形成：

　　1、脏的进气~灰尘~

　　2、从机油蒸汽回收管收集的曲轴箱窜气和机油蒸汽~

　　怠速~或者节气门开度小的时候~节气门门缝气流的流速是很快的~而且由于气流流动速度快~造成温度相对低~

　　上边说的两个东西的混合物~很粘稠~在门缝~遇冷凝结~就形成了图上的油泥~

　　油泥多了~进气会产生涡流~产生气阻~

　　节气门脏~会造成怠速不稳~低速油门不听话~不好着车~等症状~

　　严重的~会产生电脑报错~没有怠速等后果~如果是电子节气门的车~节气门故障~这车就别想动了哈~

　　所以~当节气门脏到一定程度~就要清洗~但是~老洗也不好~清洗液渗到节气门里边的电机或者其他电子元件里~容易造成节气门的损坏~

　　有的车~例如FK~夏历~是靠带速旁通阀控制怠速的~道理和上边差不多~脏了也得洗。

　　最后说下如何预防节气门脏~

　　1、用合适的机油~夏天~一定要用15W40以上标号的机油~避免产生过多的机油蒸汽。

　　2、尽量少怠速呆着~怠速时候曲轴箱窜气最多了~

　　3、安装机油冷却装置~减少机油蒸汽的产生~

　　4、安装机油透气壶~把曲轴箱窜气回收起来~防止它进入节气门~

　　5、不要使用劣质的“大流量”风格或者“冬菇”~空气过滤装置要勤换勤洗~

　　这里提1句：原厂的纸制空气滤芯~只能换~不能洗~更不能拿气泵吹！

独家作业。用奥特佳最新型号完美替换牡丹江V50压缩机 - 爱我中华尊驰车友会 - XCAR 爱卡汽车俱乐部

独家作业。用奥特佳最新型号完美替换牡丹江V50压缩机 - 爱我中华尊驰车友会 - XCAR 爱卡汽车俱乐部: "不用洗了。"


独家作业。用奥特佳最新型号完美替换牡丹江V50压缩机

独家作业。用奥特佳最新型号完美替换牡丹江V50压缩机独家作业。用奥特佳最新型号完美替换牡丹江V50压缩机
注：厂方内部是不允许拍照的，我只能拍拍部分我车上的照片

独家作业。用奥特佳最新型号完美替换牡丹江V50压缩机
去奥特佳厂里面换的，南京车友的优势哇，哈哈
先站坑，慢慢写。图片晚上才能上来
---------------------------------
事情经过很巧。
周末压缩机实在吵的难受。南京的4S又想黑我钱，放点制冷剂要200(具体哪个不说了，了解的都知道)。于是问4S换南京奥特佳多少钱，告诉我2000不到。
我想好啊~~干脆冒个险。。
但是转念一想不对。换电装的也不过2000多块钱。黑我啊。。。

又不是厂家在东北，联系不上，就在南京大明路嘛，我们的地盘嘛。直接电话到厂家销售部。
销售部的小mm态度不要太好，立马给了我总代理的电话。可是总代说支架他们不一定有，要问厂家还有库存。
于是电话又回去。销售部的mm很热情，得知我是中华车后，提出一个解决方案：
他们已经研制出一款跟牡丹江V5完全通用的涡旋式压缩机，只要换上就行了。而且已经试验过部分车子。想让我试试看。
我那个高兴啊！！！不用换支架了！！只要换个压缩机就行了！！！

另外：南京奥特佳的压缩机是可变排量的，有国家专利的。不是固定排量的。质量不用担心。效果好不好等我用了就知道.
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昨晚兴奋的一夜没睡好。早上一大早就往大明路出发了。结果堵的一塌糊涂。本来15分钟就到的路走了40多分钟~~~。哎，城市的交通哇。。。南京的交通哇~~~~(南京靠一个长江大桥支撑了快60年，你说强不强，马上又要造桥了。结果桥在镇江，算镇江二桥了)

进入厂区办手续。提货。

看新的压缩机
screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/attachment.php?aid=11110227&noupdate=yes');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out" border="0" width="793"> screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/images/old/attachimg.gif');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">
screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/images/attachicons/image.gif');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0"> 点击查看原图 (68.4 KB)
08-05-14 22:52


screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/attachment.php?aid=11110248&noupdate=yes');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out" border="0" width="793"> screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/images/old/attachimg.gif');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">
screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/images/attachicons/image.gif');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0"> 点击查看原图 (84.73 KB)
08-05-14 22:55





这是新型号，叫WXH-106-Q2。据介绍，这是厂家根据大量的反馈和某些汽车厂(自己看是哪家吧)售后的意见专门开发出来的。据说上海牡丹江压缩机的中华几乎都卖不动了。


然后开到奥特佳厂环境实验室的边上的空地开始拆卸。
拆卸过程就不多说了。反正不复杂。不用上升降机。只要上上螺丝就行了
这是旧压缩机在车子内部的照片，注意红色部分是消声器，据厂方人说骏捷就没看到，我是尊驰。

screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/attachment.php?aid=11110301&noupdate=yes');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out" border="0" width="793"> screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/images/old/attachimg.gif');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">
screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/images/attachicons/image.gif');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0"> 点击查看原图 (105.64 KB)
08-05-14 23:01




看拆下来的压缩机，牡丹江的V50，制冷不错，就是噪音，而且动力损失很厉害。


screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/attachment.php?aid=11110313&noupdate=yes');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out" border="0" width="793"> screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/images/old/attachimg.gif');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">
screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.62) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.62; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/images/attachicons/image.gif');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0"> 点击查看原图 (126.71 KB)
08-05-14 23:02




最后装好加冷媒。这里要提醒大家注意了。加冷媒很重要，一定要抽真空抽足够的时间，起码20分钟。然后保持住几分钟看看压力有没有变化。

加冷媒的时候要用高精度电子秤的，秤够500G以后启动压缩机看压力，进行调整。

全部完工走人。说说效果。因为南京今天气温不是很高，所以只能说个大概，只有等下面几天气温升高了再看。
首先怠速时候制冷肯定是不如牡丹江那麽快那么冷的。这跟涡旋压缩机本身的设计有关系。确实是转速越高效果越好。
但是谁会一直怠速等着呢。肯定要开的。而且说不如牡丹江那么冷也是相比较而言，还是蛮凉的。

其次真的在路上开起来真是冷气十足。现在还不够热，所以我冻的吃不消(为了试验空调所以不管了)。

另外关于声音：在室外你启动压缩机根本听不出来，车子也不抖。只听见继电器的咔咔声音。

动力：启动时候根本感觉不到车子抖，转速表几乎没任何变化。

真正的效果等我这几天看看到底如何。
最后评价下牡丹江和奥特佳的、

牡丹江肯定是制冷没的说，他不管什么状态下都能很好的制冷。奥特佳肯定是怠速制冷效果不如行驶中，但也很不错了，据厂方说是"膨胀阀影响的，可以调的怠速也很好，只是需要大量数据来调整"。
对车子动力影响牡丹江是真的吃不消，奥特佳基本没影响，如果说有影响，我估计十有八九是安装问题吧。
噪音：除非在室内停车场能听到压缩机启动，否则在室外根本没感觉。

。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。

最后说说外地车友安装办法。最好集体团购。
2个办法：一种是直接找厂家买(不太可能，厂家不能不顾当地代理的利益)
第二就是找当地代理商订货，价格我不太清楚，因为给我的价格是厂方内部的价格.估计大家外面拿货应该在900多,1000左右的样子。
只要买压缩机就行了。其他的什么都不用买，直接拿到修理厂替换就行了。
BTW一个细节：装好以后奥特佳的严经理(客户质量)，专门把我换下的螺丝量了下。告诉我他们当时做的时候一个垫脚高度跟牡丹江有点小区别，所以我装的时候得用他们带的螺丝。下面准备改成一模一样，100%替换牡丹江的V50.

最后我建议大家，要想追求100%效果，那就去买电装的，全部下来2000多。我反正觉得奥特佳已经足够好了，1000左右就能搞完多好。
如果想换的TX等我用用以后后再定，请你们耐心些。这是对大家的负责~~~

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2008年5月15早上：今早上班开始还很凉快，没开空调。半路就吃不消了，开了。结果感觉怠速情况下也很舒服。制冷效果真的不错呢
噪音是一点都没！！！动力损失在我的尊驰2.0MT根本看不出来，启动空调后车子抖都不抖！！！
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2008年5月15晚上：南京开始有点热了。打空调，很爽。动力损失感觉不到。现在唯一就是在晚上车少安静的马路上开空调时候能听见咚一声电子风扇启动的声音。说实话我想换风扇了.....不知道多少钱

其实这个压缩机好不好看销量就知道了。奥特佳去年60W台。今年估计破百万。很多厂家都开始采用他们的了。什么海马，比亚迪，奇瑞，吉利，等等。华晨也开 始采用，并且用奥特佳的压缩机的卖的很好，而牡丹江的大量滞销。我感觉这个压缩机性能比进口高档的电装的很接近了。可能没100%也有90%的性能了，价 格才人家的一半。
大家看看这些论坛还有骂奥特佳压缩机的，卖了多少W了，我是没找到骂的。
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2008年5月16日早上：早上南京的气温太舒服了。没开空调，不好意思，(*^__^*) 嘻嘻……
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2008年5月16日晚上：南京气温开始热了，几乎一路空调，感觉油耗跟没开差不多，动力依然差不多，也许是我是2.0的功率大，感觉不到。不知道各位TX 1.8的能感觉到动力损失吗？反正我打的25度，不敢太低，怕冷，效果依然不错。

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2008-6-6傍晚。今天去外面找了个修理厂打进去了空调增效剂，果然明显！！制冷速度更快了。开起来最低到了3.9了，哇哈哈哈

强烈建议各位换了压缩机，然后加上增效剂，增效剂60块钱一瓶。叫做什么惠仕的，其他的不多说了，免的以为我再做广告


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跟大家总结下空调压缩机问题终结解决办法和注意事项，欢迎各位补充：


解决办法很简单，就是换南京奥特佳的压缩机，型号是 WHX-106-Q2，没必要换什么电装，还是二手的，还要改这个改那个。奥特佳的已经是完美的跟牡丹江V50一样的机架和尺寸了。
可以参考 hellfire0513 的帖子 http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=7719801&extra=page%3D1

解决流程：
1.联系当地经销/代理商,如果没有就找你最近的。具体经销商可以上奥特佳网站(不写了，省的以为我来做广告的)，或者电话：025-52602200，找殷婕MM.或者025-52602600转销售二部找殷婕mm,其实找其他人也可以。
2.价格大约800-900左右。具体多少看各位本事，等下请已经安装的TX告诉我下你们的价格，我来看看是不是全国统一的价格，因为这个得谨慎，怕伤害经销商和厂家的利益的。
3.安装：请找你们当地专业--一定得是专业的汽车空调维修的厂家/商家来进行安装，强烈不建议4S做，从全国范围看4S的技术实在。。。。。
4.效果不好请一定找你安装的原因，因为现在来看效果很不错，绝对跟电装的一拼。



安装注意事项-非常重要：
1.一定要专业人士和商家来操作。
2.制冷剂(冷媒)的加注量很重要，一定要商家用电子秤来进行称量。我安装的时候电子秤可是1G都不差。
加入量分500G和750G两种，因为现在看来尊驰的空调系统有区别。可能是自是750G,手是500g,反正看你车子冷媒管上面贴的加注量为准。
3.冷媒的选用：我们都是R134A的，没什么可说的。用厂家提供的就可以了（我在奥特佳厂加的，可没他们那么漂亮的罐子，我的是一个大大的煤气包嘿 嘿）。如果你那里没有，请一定要选用名牌，比如 金冷的冷媒(雪种)。请大家一定要注意，冷媒假冒的很多，请一定要选正品的，大约在30左右一小罐300G的。如果10多块钱的，建议别买了，很可能是假 的，F12冒充的。如果是假的效果会很差，还可能伤害管路和压缩机。

4.一定要先把老的冷媒排放干净，有条件的可以清洗下管路。我强烈建议各位最后加装空调增效剂。上海惠仕的，联系方式请找他们网站，价格是60一罐，要 For R134A的。汇款过去，发圆通快递到付。他的功效是情节管路，增加润滑，降低高低压口的压力。我加装了以后效果明显，降温速度更快了。最低温度终于突破 4.2度极限，达到了3.9度。
当然如果你是1年都不到的车子，那么加空调增效剂效果不会明显的，我们1年半以上的车子加了效果不错，管路也不用洗了。
5。干燥瓶，如果你是2年以上的车子，建议在加制冷剂之前换了。如果才1年左右没必要换。加个空调增效剂就行了。
6、加制冷剂之前一定要先抽真空，抽他15分钟以上，最好半小时才好。真空泵的能力一定要够。
7.抽完真空要保持住3-5分钟，看压力有没有明显下降。如果下降说明接头或者管路有问题(管路问题可能性小，一般都是接头，修理工都会搞)
8.加注的时候先把冷媒罐放在电子秤再加，一定要按标准量加入。加入完以后再根据压力表进行调整。加入量这方面专业修理厂都会控制的。
9.如果你用了空调增效剂，那么在加完以后先开会，看看是否有效果了，制冷了再加增效剂。加完增效剂以后，一定要踩油门到1500转保持住5-10分钟。或者开开，等个1-2小时作用就会出来的。

好了就说这么多了，希望大家早日脱离苦海，哈哈

Honda-Tech.com: Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992 - 2000): [FAQ] How-To: Charge your A/C air conditioner conditioning system at home

Honda-Tech.com: Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992 - 2000): [FAQ] How-To: Charge your A/C air conditioner conditioning system at home

After reading the threads posted here, I am sick to my stomach with all the false information. I will correct a few things.

***BUT BEFORE I CONTINUE***

I would like it to be known that my goal for this thread is to ANSWER EVERY POSSIBLE QUESTION ABOUT A/C REPAIRS for automobiles. This is going to be the all knowing, famous referrance for repair. So ask away! And I will do my best to answer or direct you to the answer.

On with the article...

From 1994-present, all a/c is r134a. 1993 and below is all r12. However, apparently SOME 1993 are r134a, according to feedback from some users.

I will explain to you IN DETAIL exactly how the air conditioning system works. Just keep reading on below.

If you need to vacuum your system out, GO TO AUTOZONE and rent a professional grade vacuum pump. They charge $200 up front. When you return it, you get ever dime back. Free rental service.

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****UPDATE****

Due to the high volume of people complaining of how autozones near them dont rent vacuum pumps, I have decided to do our country a favor and rent out a vaccuum pump for a deposit plus 20 dollars. By the way, here is the part number for the vacuum pump at autozone....#90062 - This is the correct number not what I had listed before.

So what am I saying? I am saying that if you can't find a vacuum pump and you need one, I will go down to autozone myself and rent it. Then, you send me the deposit I pay ($213.00) plus shipping and $25. Yes, its a lot of money upfront. Yes, you will pay for shipping there and back, and I will make $25 off it. So you can expect to get a vacuum pump for anywhere between $35-$45 net cost. When you return the pump, you get the $213 deposit back. That equals $248-$258 approximate UPFRONT costs.

So, is it worth it to you? I don't know, But I am making it an option. Email, or PM me to take me up on this.

DOUBLE BONUS!...

Well not really, but it sounds cool. What I'm saying is I have ANOTHER handy tool for rent! I just bought a professional grade ELECTRONIC LEAK DETECTOR by Bacharach...the TRU POINTE. This sweet ass device can detect a leak AS SMALL AS 0.1oz PER YEAR! Thats not a typo, 0.1 oz per year! Let me put this into perspective for you. An average size honda a/c system holds 22oz. That means a leak that small would take TWO HUNDRED TWENTY YEARS (220 years!) before the leak completely depleted the system. Meaning, if you have a leak, this will find it, GUARANTEED. You can view the specifications here:
http://www.bacharach-inc.com/tru_pointe.htm

Why do I say this with such enthusiasm...well one because I am a salesman and Im getting you hyped so you will rent it from me, and TWO...because it really works. I was able to find my leaks that were otherwise invisble to the UV dye I had previously tried. I had a couple leak points...my drier connections (didnt put the [freak]in o-rings in, now i wasted a whole batch of precious r12) and my nipples. Um, the a/c line nipples.

So, I am willing to rent this out, once again, for my cost ($150) plus shipping ($10) and a fee of $40. Why more? because find somewhere else where you can get PROFESSIONAL GRADE leak detection, that you KNOW is gonna be done right, for less than that. I already know the answer. You won't find it. Otherwise I would have done it myself. And let me tell you, I am smart shopper.

Recap, you pay $200 upfront, and you get back $150, and $40 of that original $200 goes into my pocket, for providing you this convenience.

PM or Email me through Honda-Tech's System if you are interested in this.

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If you have an r134a system, you can recharge it yourself. If you have access to r12, you can also, although you can not buy it at the stores. You need an EPA handling liscence to buy it legally, although if you are smart you can get a hold of it.

Proof that r12 owns. This is my vent temp while ambient outside air is 100 degrees. 49 degrees vent temp at an parked idle. It will get down to 40 when driving and it is 95 degrees or less. Sick.

My lucky bottles of r12.

WHILE YOU ARE AT AUTOZONE, buy a "gauge manifold set" which looks like 3 hoses, red yellow and blue, and 2 gauges. Get the $70 or whatever is more expensive, because the cheap one doesnt have as many readings on the gauge. Buy the can tap and referigerant while you are there, or buy the can that already has the hose attatched to it.

I would like to mention to never buy the kind that has "stop leak" added. Only refrigerant, the proper oil, and UV dye is safe in your a/c system, regardless of what any advertising says.

Now there is really only 4 main things that are likely wrong with your system.

1. Moisture/air/low freon in the system. You can check this easily by looking at your receiver-drier. Look at the site glass on top of the drier. You will probably need to wipe it off to see through it. Now, if you see a million little bubbles, or a couple fat bubbles, then you obviously have either air in your line or you are low on freon. Check your pressure before topping off with freon. You do not want to overcharge. The safest way is to just drain the entire system and start from scratch, considering how cheap refrigerant is...where as if you overcharge and blow your compressor, thats gonna cost you $100 for a used on and several hundred for a new one, along with a new receiver/drier, new TXV/orifice tube, and if you are really unlucky, evaporator and condensor. Thats over $650 right there. Aparantly some AC systems don't have a site glass on the drier, so the only way to check is to check your low and high side pressures. Below 30psi LOW and 150psi HIGH is undercharged.

2. Your thermal expansion valve or TXV is not properly functioning. If debris got in your line, it can clog the valve, or it may just stop working. This is a $33 dollar autozone item you can replace while the system is open. When you open the system, you will also need to replace the receiver drier, because it absorbs moisture and will become saturated one you open the lines, making it useless. That is another $30 dollar item. Not to say that it instantly will absorb all moisture and become useless, however after if it is more than 2 years old you should replace it anyway, or if the drier was exposed to air for more than a day. Now if you suspect a leak in the line, you should hold off on replacing the drier until you fix the leak, unless you want to buy another drier while you open the line up and fix the leak.

If debris is caught somewhere in the line, it will cause premature expansion of the refrigerant. You will be able to tell this by checking the hot line for an immediate cold spot. Thats where the debris is located which needs to be flush out. When flushing you line, you CAN NOT flush through the compressor or thermal expansion valve. Most of the time flushing through the condensor will not clear the debris because it will just flow right past it.

3. Your compressor is bad. Unlikely though. If your pressure stays stable while the a/c is on and the pressure is within 25-50 cold side and 150-200 high side, normally that means its good. If the clutch spins with no grinding then that is a good sign.

4. You have a leak in your line and the system will not hold a charge. FIRST AND FORMOST, replace the valve cores on the high and low side nipples. I just found out last night I had a FAT leak in my valve core, and it turns out that was my only leak. If your system is already low or empty, you might as well replace them anyway and save money and a headache later. They cost $4 for a repair kit at autozone. It says its for r134a however it will work on r12 lines, even bycicles nipples.

So to recap what you will need to recharge your system:
1. Rent a vacuum pump from autozone.
2. Buy a gauge manifold set from autozone, 3 hoses with 2 gauges attached. Return them when done.
3. Buy saftey gogles. Protect your vision always.
4. If you have a leak, buy the valve core (high pressure and low pressure nipple) repair kit.
5. Buy refrigerant at autozone. Do not buy the kind with stop leak added, only regular or UV added kind.
6. Drain your lines of refrigerant. It is illegal to vent into the atmosphere, so use your common sense.

7. Attach the gauge manifold set to your high and low pressure nipples. Attach the vacuum pump to the middle (yellow) line. Open both the high and low side lines. Run the vacuum pump for 30 mins MINIMUM up to one full hour. If the compressor sounds like its seriously about to break, you can shut it off sooner, BUT NO SHORTER THAN 30 MINUTES. (A weak compressor may not have the power required to suck perfect vacuum, and will stress the motor.) Some may say less, but I say why risk under pumping when you can just let it sit a little longer.

In the first picture, you will side a r12 High Side adapter. Not all a/c systems will require this. Some r12 systems will have the proper fittings already installed. If you have r134a, then you would simply screw on the adapter pieces onto the gauge manifold.

WHY YOU MUST PULL A DEEP VACUUM

FIRST, I will explain to you exactly how an a/c system works. The compressor will be the start of the process. So, the compressor first compresses AMBIENT TEMPERATURE low pressure vaporized (gas) refrigerant. (and this initial gas starts out at AMBIENT TEMPERATURE [ambient = surrounding temperature] simply due to natural tendeance for heat to balance itself among two platforms when the a/c has been turned off for a while. This low pressure gas will become a cool low pressure gas after it makes a few cycles through the system, thus the reason why your a/c blows colder over time.)

Once compressed it becomes a hot high pressure gas. Then this gas travels to the condensor and is cooled off (condensed) to a hot high pressure liquid. This was the first "phase change". It requires a LOT of energy for a substance to change phases. So when it condenses into a liquid, a LOT of heat is released.

The liquid refrigereant then travels to the drier to filter oil dirt and moisture, then to the Thermal Expansion Valve and becomes a cold low pressure liquid which causes it to absorb some heat.(Depending on the make of the car, it may use an orifice tube instead of a TXV, which does essentially the same thing. If it was equiped with an orifice tube then rather than passing through a drier previously, it would go straight to the orifce tube then to an accumulator after the evaporator which serves as a dirt and liquid filter to prevent liquid refrigerant from traveling to the compressor and potentially locking it up.)

Now that its a cold low pressure liquid the boiling point has been reduced significantly. It now travels through the evaporator which is where it absorbs its heat from and is also where the second phase change occurs. When the refrigerant reaches its boiling point halfway through the evaporator, it requires A LOT of heat for this phase change to occur. Thus the absorbtion of the heat from the surrounding air making it cold, and is then blown at your face as conditioned air! Now that the refrigerant has absorbed a LOT of heat, its a cool low pressure GAS and heads back to the compressor and repeats the whole cycle!

Now....Air in the system can lead to higher than desired pressures in the a/c lines, which could falsly activate the high pressure cut off switch and turn off the compressor when in reality your compressor hasnt been running long enough to cool you down at all! Air-Air is also a VERY poor heat transfer platform. So when it reachers the evaporator, its just wasting space and doesnt actually remove any heat. However, Air-Liquid is a GREAT heat transfer platform, hense why your radiator has LIQUID flowing through it, and same with your evaporator and same with your condensor. So this is ONE reason why we pull a deep vacuum.

Moisture in the system can form corrosive acids when mixed with refrigerant or oil which will tear up your a/c system over time. It can also freeze and cause a block in the line considering its freezing point is MUCH higher than that of refrigerant. This is the OTHER reason why we pull a deep vacuum. To lower the boiling point of water and make it a vapor which can then be sucked out with a vacuum pump.

On with the vacuuming process..."

(For this section, when I refer to "psi" I am really refering to "inches of mercury" or "inHg" which is the proper measurement for vacuum)

Once the vacuum has completed, CLOSE BOTH VALVES BEFORE TURNING OFF THE PUMP, or air will be sucked right back in the system and you will have to repeat. Your vacuum should be close to -29.92 psi. Now, it likely will not be this close, because that is perfect vacuum. But the closer the better. I got mine to -28.3 psi. If it only reaches -15 psi. then you likely have a leak somewhere preventing deep vacuum and your a/c system will NEVER blow cold with that a shallow vacuum due to the excessive amout of air and moisture left in the lines. I will repeat that. YOU MUST HAVE A DEEP (CLOSE TO -29 PSI) VACUUM FOR YOUR AC TO BLOW COLD. Vacuum lowers the boiling point of liquids, so at -28psi water will boil at approximately 10 degrees. Remember, if vacuum never gets deep enough, the water will never boil and be removed from the system. And we already know why air and moisture is bad for our a/c system.

Keep the gauge manifold attached with both valves CLOSED. Now you want to keep the lines up there to check for any leaks in the system. I let mine sit for 24 hours to check for any leaks. If you have a leak, the pressure will begin to stablize towards 0psi. Now its very possible that you have a small leak that lasts several months before fully depleting the system. There is another way to check for leaks. If you bought the UV dye kind of refrigerant, then you can check with an UV flashlight once you finish the charging process. You can also buy an electronic leak detector to check. It beeps when it senses refrigerant and detects as small as 0.1oz per YEAR. I do not know how small of leaks UV dye will show.

Now. If you have not changed any parts then you will still have oil in your line, so you do NOT need to add any. You do not want to overcharge with oil, or damage and insufficient cooling may occur.

Now with the valves CLOSED, unhook the middle line which goes to the pump and hook up your line that goes to the can of refrigerant. THIS NEXT STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT. With the refrigerant line CONNECTED and the valves CLOSED, open the can tap valve on the can of refrigerant. Now refrigerant is pressurizing the line. With your saftey gogles ON, press and hold the pressure relief button just above of the middle line's input connection. This allows refrigerant to fill the line. Hold this for about 10 seconds. This removed all AIR and MOISTURE from the yellow line and fill it with refrigerant. You do not want to add what you just spend an hour removing right back into the system.

Now that the line has been purged of air and moisture, you are almost ready to begin charging the lines. Turn your car ON and turn the a/c to max cooling max fan. Your compressor will most likely not turn on due to the low pressure cut off switch, which prevents damage to your compressor when the pressure is too low in the line. Now open the can top on the refrigerant can and open the LOW SIDE (BLUE) valve on the gauge manifold set. ONCE AGIAN, THE LOW BLUE SIDE, NOT RED. If you charge on the high side, you risk blowing the can of refrigerant up. Think about how much pressur 200psi is on a baby can of refrigerant. Now it will take about 30 minutes to an hour to fill the system with refrigerant. You might need to use two cans of refrigerant. If this is the case, when you are ready to switch cans close the blue low side tightly. Remove the empty can and attach the new one. NOW DON'T FORGET TO PURGE THE LINE AGAIN. Now repeat the process until the system is charged properly.

For those of you who are just a little low on refrigerant, you can top off your system if the leak is not major. You deside whether the leak is over a long enough period that it is worth it to simply top off and let it leak out again. To me, a 3 year long leak would be worth it to top off. Its easy enough to fix a leak.

To top off your ac, you do not need a gauge manifold if you are careful. Hook up the bottle straight to the low side line. REMEMBER TO PURGE THE LINE. To purge it without a purge valve, open the can so refrigerant is flowing out of the line. Now just screw on the hose while refrigerant is flowing out. Now you are safe from contaminating your precious time-invested a/c system.

Each a/c system takes its own amount of refrigerant. It's also very hard to judge how much of the can you have used, so be smart and pay attention so you dont overcharge. I highly doubt that the using the full can will be the exact amount you need.

WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED SERVICING YOUR A/C, MAKE SURE TO PUT THE CAPS BACK ON THE NIPPLES. If you dont have caps, GET SOME. The valve cores do not always seal properly. I just replaced mine and it still leaks a little bit some times. The cap will 100% seal them from leaking.

I hope this guide helped anyone who read it understand how a/c systems work and gave you enough knowledge so you can at least charge you system at home. There is no reason to pay a shop $100+ bucks in labor plus the cost of refrigerant when you can do it at home for ONLY the cost of refrigerant.

Here are a couple of websites that have a lot of great info on them about a/c's.

http://www.aircoparts.com/faq.htm
http://www.aircondition.com
http://www.acsource.com

Stay cool.

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UPDATE

Since you are probably wondering now...I will update my post.

HOW TO FLUSH YOUR A/C SYSTEM.

1. First, go buy flush at autozone. DON'T use regular soap, detergent or degreaser. The resedue left behind is not compatible with a/c oil or refrigetant. A/C flush solvent residue IS compatible with oil and refrigerant, so if any is left behind its no worries.

2. Rent an a/c flush gun from autozone. This just makes the process 8000 million times easier. If you cant find one, you could make one. Its basically a can with a charging input at top where you connect the compressed air source, and a removable peice at the top where you pour solvent into, and an output line coming out of the bottom where the pressurized solvent flows out. Otherwise, if you are really ghetto, you could get a funnel and pour it in the line 1 oz at a time, shoot some air through, and repeat.

3. If you have a flush gun, pour solvent in, hook up compressed air that will supply at LEAST 90PSI at 2.5 cfm. Ideal is 135psi constant, max 150 psi. Any less than 90 will not blow the solvent through efficiently.

NOTE: You can NOT flush through the COMPRESSOR, THERMAL EXPANSION VALVE/ORIFICE TUBE or RECEIVER-DRIER/ACCUMULATOR.

4. Unhook the lines at either the compressor. Then unhook the opposite end of the line and have a little bucket there to catch the flush material. So example. You want to flush the high side. Start at the compressor output line, then it will go through the condensor and come out of the drier fitting. (Remember, cant flush through the drier.) Then, start again at the drier output, and finish at where the expansion valve would be. Either do that, or take the TXV out, reconnect the lines, then flush from the drier output all the way through the evaporator then out the input line for the compressor.

Start flushing. It will shoot through the lines. The solvent is clear. If the solvent comes out BLACK and thick then you need to keep flushing with more solvent until it comes out CLEARISH and THIN. (It came out literally like melted chocolate when I flushed this dude's ford explorer.) The whole flush process takes about 30 minutes to an hour depending on how many times you need to flush it.

Its good to have a hand around to hold the compressed air line on the top of the flush gun while you hold the flush gun line in the a/c lines. Its stupid because you cant just screw the compressed air on the top, you have to hold it like pumping up a bike tube. It sucked to hold both by myself.

Once you are satisfied with the color of the solvent output, continue to flush with PURE AIR for 5-15 minutes, or until mainly air comes out. Be aware that most of the time, the solvent will be coming out as mist, while some will be dripping out in your bucket. It didnt kill me to breathe it, so i assume its non toxic. Also, when you first start to flush with a full can of solvent, BE SURE TO HOLD THE FLUSH GUN LINE UP TO THE A/C LINE FIRMLY, OR IT WILL ALL SHOOT RIGHT BACK OUT AT YOUR HAND.

Have fun.

My Cell Phone #
1-480-430-6156
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UPDATE:

Upon successfully recharging my second a/c system of my life, mine, my vent temp now blows at 50 degrees when ambient (outside) air is 110.

At 95 degrees and below, my a/c will max out at 40 degrees vent temperature (verified with a gauge) , which is when the compressor cycles off to prevent frost/ice from forming on the evaporator coils.

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And by the way. If anyone wants to send kind donations, I would love to accept them. Just shoot me an email through Honda-Tech's system.